The through-line: give each roll an identity when you load it, log each frame the moment you shoot it, keep the roll and its notes together until the negatives are scanned — then match them back in frame order. Everything below is that idea, stage by stage.
The seven stages
Load
Name the roll, record the camera, film stock and ISO/EI.
Shoot & log
Capture aperture, shutter, compensation and location per frame.
Finish the roll
Rewind, label the canister, move it to "shot — to develop."
Develop
Home or lab. Keep the roll's identity attached the whole time.
Scan
Digitise the negatives, keeping strict frame order.
Match
Line up frame numbers with your notes so every scan has its settings.
Archive
File negatives and scans, keep the log with them for good.
1. Load — give the roll an identity
The workflow lives or dies on this first step. A fresh canister is anonymous; a wound-back one looks identical. The moment you load, record a name you'll recognise, the camera it's going into, the film stock, and the ISO/EI you'll rate it at. That single record is what lets you answer "which roll is in which camera?" later and connects the physical film to your notes.
→ Full detail: how to keep track of film rolls.
2. Shoot & log — capture each frame's story
Film carries no EXIF, so the exposure data only exists if you write it down. For each frame, note aperture, shutter speed, exposure compensation, the lens, and — when it matters — a meter reading and the location. Do it at the shutter, not later; memory fades fast across 36 frames.
→ Full detail: how to log film camera settings.
3. Finish the roll — keep the identity attached
When the roll is done, rewind it and move it in your system from "active" to "shot — to develop." Put a piece of tape on the canister with the roll's name, and note the EI if you pushed or pulled. A labelled canister is a roll that can't get lost between your camera bag and the lab.
4. Develop — home or lab
Whether you develop at home or hand rolls to a lab, the rule is the same: the roll's identity must survive the trip. If you send several rolls at once, the tape labels are what let you tell them apart when they come back as anonymous strips of negatives.
5. Scan — preserve frame order
Scanning is where order matters most. Scan in sequence and keep the frame numbers intact — frame 1 in the log has to be frame 1 on the roll. If your scanner or lab renumbers frames, decide on one convention (start at 1, left to right) and stick to it for every roll.
6. Match — reunite notes and scans
Now the payoff. With scans in frame order and notes in frame order, you can walk down the roll and attach every setting, location and comment to the right image. This is the step that turns a folder of unlabelled JPEGs into a documented body of work.
→ Full detail: how to match film notes to your scans.
7. Archive — file it so nothing is lost
File the negatives in sleeves, store the scans with a clear naming scheme, and keep the log alongside them. A roll you shot two years ago should still be able to tell you what lens, what stock, and where you stood.
→ Full detail: how to organize developed and undeveloped rolls.
How Film Logbook carries the whole pipeline
Film Logbook is built around this exact flow. It names and dates each roll, records the camera, film and ISO, and keeps per-frame settings, reference images and locations as you shoot. Active rolls are visible at a glance, everything is stored privately on your device and your own iCloud, and when you develop, each roll — with every frame's settings and locations — is waiting to be matched to your scans. Export a finished roll as structured JSON (free) or a clean, printable PDF (with Pro) for your archive.
It's free for up to two active rolls; a one-time €5.99 Pro unlocks unlimited rolls, PDF export and custom icons. iPhone, iOS 15 or later.
One place for the whole roll, start to scan.
Free on the App Store. iPhone, iOS 15 or later.
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